Angarkha is an upper male costume which is mostly worn in Rajasthan. The traditional clothing is worn in all communities, ethnic groups and cultures of Rajasthan. Angarkhi is a shorter version of Angarkha. It is similar like kurta. The costume is easily available in several markets and local shops at reasonable prices. Angarkha is the formal costume of the rich people in Rajasthan. People of tribal and rural communities may wear this outfit on special occasions and festivals. But for the daily usages, men commonly put on angarkhi which is also called as the puthia. Lengths and styles vary from area to area but the main basic design and cut of the clothing remains similar. The exclusive design part of Angarkha makes it a stunning outfit.
Some types of angarkha are designed similar to paneled coat and a few of them are tailored by connecting the skirt and bodice. The worth of skirt changes as per the shape and size of the garment. In order to improve the quality of the wearer, various slits are made at the writs and sides. The angarkha is commonly tied at the neck, chest, waist and underarm with cords or fabric ties. Both Muslim and Hindu traditions are fitted in the clothing. Muslim tradition is noticeable on the outer area with tie cords and armpit; on the other hand Hindu tradition can be seen under the ties of the left armpit.
Generally, Angarkha is made of brocade or plain silk, mainly for special occasions like marriage. Cotton voile is printed cotton with beautiful looking golf tinsel. They are good examples of pleasingly tailored Angarkha. Handsomely Angarkha are also very popular that you can find in many museums as well. They depict the real traditional dress of Rajasthan. Many people who come to Rajasthan also wear it or buy few Angarkha collections.
Angarkha is designed of thick and, at times with tailored materials. The costume is commonly worn in winter. On the other hand, summer Angarkha is made of fine cotton. Angarkha remained a formal wear in 19th century in many parts of the northern India. Its shape and length swayed to the latest fashion and they can also vary as per the time. Puthia or Angarkhi has similar cut that reaches under the hips. The costume is made with reza, white handspun cotton and colored with different kinds of vegetable dyes. There are some regional communities where red tul is used to make Angarkhi. It is worn among various communities showing construction and cut like puthia. Women also wear similar type of puthia in Rajasthan. Multiple panels are added to the right and left sides of angarkhi that can be extended. Angarkhi commonly has a circular yoke at the front side which is decorated by piping. There are 2 front panels on both right and left sides. Panels are divided into 3 sections, right, centre and left panels.
In Rajasthan, people wear light costumes when they want to dress properly in a formal way. It was known as kamari angarkhi that reaches up to the waist. The cut of angarkhi is common in all Rajasthani communities but differences can be seen in the flare and length of the costume. Other difference in piping and fabrics used to made angarkhi. Lack of vibrant colors is visible in angarkhi.