Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Kota Doria or Masuriya Sari, Traditional Rajasthani Textiles


Kota Doria or Masuriya is the stunning Rajasthani textile that made Khaitoon village popular throughout India. Typical villages in Rajasthan known for weaving include Mangrol, Khaitoon, Sarnsan and Siswali have minimum 1 loom in every house. These villages are popular for weaving on loom. Skilled weavers are familiar with traditional textiles of Rajasthan and deliver beautiful outfits. Such looms can be power looms, handlooms or just pit looms that are commonly arranged by their weavers. Looms are used for weaving yarn into textile to make beautiful clothing for men and women. A wide variety of looms is available for weaving in Rajasthan.



Khaitoon village is just 15 km away from Kota. Most communities in Rajasthan wear pagadi, dhoti and odhni designed of masuriya textile. Translucent and light, this type of textile was preferred by royal families. Masuriya fabric has derived from pagadi, sari and odhni, whereas pagadi and masuriya odhni are also worn in Rajasthan. Kota sari is one of the famous sarees. Reeling, sizing, dyeing, warping and lastly weaving, simply with a jaala attachment that is done for making the stunning fabric.

Initial 4 steps for manufacturing masuriya are for the formulation of silk yarn, which can be found in 2 types. Its thicker form is designed of eighty counts while the finer yarn is made of one hundred twenty counts. For reeling process, a hand-turned spindle is extensively used. In old days, dyers from Khaitoon magnificently dyed the yarn. These days easily accessible null-dyed yarn is commonly used. First of all the yarn is refined by following the relevant steps and then strengthened by the sizing process. Thereafter, it is dealt with a solution of boiled onions. During the warping process the yarn is sequentially arranged on the loom in a particular width and length and silver and gold thread are added to the design.

The pit treadle loom which is used by the Khaitoon’s weavers is commonly fitted with a crossbeam, connected with wooden pegs. Such pegs lift is chosen wraps so additional weft can be tucked to make the stunning designs featuring this stuff. In reality masuriya has some special features that make it different from other available weaves. The 1st is the usage of good quality yarn. Secondly its typical square chaukaris commonly called as khat, designed by weaving. The outer area is beautifully designed from the thicker yarn and superior yarn offers the inner texture. This creates the outfit with its small protrusions. Fine zari is woven in a nice pattern to the borders of the cloth. Ornamentation is done to provide better finishing.

Earlier, beige and white colors were considered for weaving, but later on the craftsmen included various colors, designs and shapes. Different types of motifs are added on Kota saris, especially in Banarasi sari.

Svastika, ambi, gavial and bel are generally used in animal patterns and shapes such as peacock and elephant. Plain check is beautifully woven in one color or with various weft and warp. Decorated with beautiful zari work throughout the sari in consonance with fabric in a little lattice design. Additional weft can be included of zari or silk yarn. At time, dye and tie and other designs of printings are also included.